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New Zealand South Island Penguins

2. Little Blue Penguins on the Otago Peninsula

We hurtled through Dunedin in the late day traffic, observing the Otago University and the famously decorative railway station from the car as we made our way onto the Otago Peninsula. Two of us got to enjoy gorgeous city views back across the long thin bay from the narrow, winding bayside Portobello Road, while our driver maintained a tense concentration on the road. Breezing past the Larnach Castle turn off and through tiny Portsmouth, we found our lodging, the Bus Stop hostel. We’d reserved the quirkiest “room” in the little hostel, a converted school bus RV used by the owners for travels in the off season. The owner Phil gave us the lowdown on the hostel facilities, then an extended briefing on the wildlife viewing and sights of the peninsula. Right now was the best time to see the albatross and we wouldn’t need to pay as they would fly right over the parking lot at the Royal Albatross Centre. Then, the Blue Penguins would be coming in at dusk at a free, ranger-staffed viewing area directly below the Albatross Centre- we should be there around 9 pm. The next day, we could view Hooker’s sea lions and possibly Yellow-eyed Penguins on the eastern side of the peninsula, while enjoying the drive out on the lovely Highcliff Road.

All sorted, we quickly put luggage in the bus, then headed off to see the big seagulls. It was approaching dinner time, but we figured we could go back and cook before the penguins arrived. From the parking lot, we followed a cliff trail that took us to a perfect viewing area. The cliffs were jammed with nesting spotted shags, and we could watch fur seals with tiny pups down on the rocks. Overhead careened dozens of screeching gulls, riding the winds that hit the cliffs. Before we could wonder where to see the albatross, a huge bird soared around the far cliff and toward our platform. It glided out of view behind a nearer point for a moment, then suddenly popped up and cruised just meters above our heads. We’d seen stuffed Albatross in museums hanging about the height this one flew over and they were impressively large but still quite gull-like. This experience somehow was very different. F said it was like a pterodactyl though you could also have said an eagle. We ended up watching for a long while until it was too late to go back for dinner, so we settled for a picnic dinner of salami sandwiches and the last of our Tasman beer from the cooler.

A bit before nine, we walked down the hill to the penguin nesting area to stake out prime viewing spots for the estimated 9:30 arrival. As the crowd thickened around us, a light drizzle started to fall. Fortunately, the dusk viewing at this site is not well known and not mentioned in the Lonely Planet so the group maxed out at under 50 people. When 9:30 came and went, the crowd became restless and some people even left, defeated by the rain. We passed the time watching seals in the water as the sky dimmed and the city lights came up across the bay. Then at around 10, as we watched a big transport ship edge out of the harbor, two little penguins flopped onto shore. And when we say little we mean the smallest in the world. Full grown Blues, or Fairy Penguins as they are known is Australia, are just 10 inches (30 cm) tall and weigh around 2 pounds (1kg). These two chattered to each other and looked around nervously before retreating back into the tide.

Just moments later, we spotted a disturbance near the shore that could have been a school of fish jumping. The clump steadily approached shore and then a dozen or more penguins tumbled ashore in an absolute racket of bird conversation. Unlike the prior landing party, this group meant business and marched directly toward our cliff overlook. As fast as penguins can waddle, they made their way across the sand and began hopping up rocks into a pathway recessed into the dunes right in front of our roped enclosure. Their trail curved into view just a few meters to our left, and we expected them to pop right out of the dunes. While not terribly shy, apparently this opening was too exposed, so most detoured under a fence and then made their way up the hill further along. A few, though, waited chattering at the trailhead, and finally inched their way into view. Even with powder blue backs and white bellies, they had the same comical arms-too long-legs-too-short character of the tuxedoed varieties. They began a series of preening activities, still periodically squeaking and squawking to their neighbors.

Before they had finished, another school of birds burst onto the beach and repeated the routine. At this point, dusk was firmly descending into full night, so between the cold and the drizzle and the dark, more and more viewers were abandoning. We were still glued to the spot and watched several more smaller and larger groups make their way to land. Some took the long route at the top, while others were more comfortable with the near opening. At one point a pair headed directly at us, stopping just a foot or two from our roped enclosure. The people nearest stayed stock-still to observe, but it seemed quite obvious that they were blocking the road these two wanted to take home. By the time someone whispered “They’re trying to get through” the little birds were turning into the dunes to find another route.

Eventually, we could barely see anything and had to head out. This was easier said than done, because the car was parked above the nest-filled hillside. We inched our way up the hill, encountering traveling penguins at every turn. We’d been warned that they were easily disturbed by lights, but we didn’t want to squash anyone or break our necks, so we made slow progress back to the road. Once there we realized that penguins were still crossing our path, the road we would need to drive back from the car park. Distressing or not, we decided car lights were essential to a safe exit, and we managed to get past the area with no casualties. We returned to our bus satisfied that we had made the right decision scrimping on costs, and would complete the trip with at least one successful close penguin encounter.

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This article was written on Saturday, October 4th, 2008 and is filed under Destination. For more articles about: New Zealand (10), South Island (4), Travel (8)

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